Travelling and Property blog

The best of Aix-en-Provence and Arles – Day 1

Aix-en-Provence and Arles have long been on my radar when thinking about Provence. I have been to Provence many times but never had the opportunity to include it on my visits. What about you? Do you also want to visit Aix-en-Provence and Arles? Are you wondering if you can include it on your next trip to Provence?

Aix-en-Provence with the Clock Tower in the background
“Aix-en-Provence with the Clock Tower in the background”

I will tell you all about our day visiting Aix-en-Provence, and later on, our visit to Arles. I will tell you what we did and what is worth seeing.

After spending a great previous day exploring Cannes and Île Saint-Marguerite, we woke up at Villa Prétorina and prepared for check-out. We had our last breakfast in the garden and soon after that packed up the car and left for Aix-en-Provence.

We were travelling independently in France with a car as we are confident travellers and speak a bit of the language. However, if you prefer to be part of a tour and to have everything organised for you, I advise you to book a complete tour with Tourradar.

Tourradar has different kinds of tours that will fit your time and budget. If you book it via my links you can get a discount by using this code: RoseG50.

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The journey was via the A8 and took us about 1 hour and 40 minutes to get there.

When we arrived, we parked the car at Parking Pasteur, which is in the north part of the town and was quite close to the centre of Aix, and easy for us to explore it on foot.

The idea was to be close to “Atelier Cézanne”, which is further north of that part of town. However, the atelier was closed from 01/04/24 and due to reopen in the spring of 2025 as they were having a makeover to improve the visit experience. Check the website for when it will open.

I read about the closure online before going, so we didn’t waste any time going there, but I still thought to park in that area was a good choice as it was very close to the centre of town. A shame we couldn’t visit the atelier at the time.

Aix-en-Provence
“Aix-en-Provence”

Below is a map showing the places we visited on our visit to Aix-en-Provence:

Map created with Wanderlog, a travel planner on iOS and Android

Before telling you what we did in these attractive towns, let’s learn a bit about Aix-en-Provence.

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT AIX-EN-PROVENCE

Aix-en-Provence was founded by the Romans in 123 BC. It became a key Roman settlement after Gaius Sextius Calvinus defeated the local Celtic-Ligurian tribes. The city thrived under Roman rule, with baths, aqueducts, and roads connecting it to the wider empire.

Aix-en-Provence
“Aix-en-Provence”

During the Middle Ages, Aix became the capital of the County of Provence, flourishing as a cultural and commercial hub. It was a centre of learning, hosting the University of Aix in the 15th century. The city also played a role in the Wars of Religion and later aligned with the French monarchy when Provence was annexed in 1487.

By the 17th and 18th centuries, Aix became an aristocratic and intellectual centre, known for its elegant mansions, baroque architecture, and literary scene. It maintained its cultural prestige into modern times, producing figures like painter Paul Cézanne.

Typical building in Aix-en-Provence
Typical building in Aix-en-Provence

Today, Aix remains a historical and artistic hub, blending its Roman, medieval, and classical heritage with a vibrant modern identity. It is known for the number of fountains scattered around giving the town its unique character.

VISITING AIX-EN-PROVENCE

Leaving the car park, we turned on Avenue Pasteur and stopped at “Monument Joseph Sec”.

Joseph Sec was a carpenter and a wood merchant who lived all his life in Aix. He wanted to be buried there when he died, so he ordered his grave, which is a special monument with many statues of Gods and Goddesses and various other characters from the Old Testament.

The monument was completed in 1792 and was made a “Monument Historique” in 1969. This site is more than just a collection of statues; it is a place of art, history and tranquillity, making it a must-see for any visitor to Aix-en-Provence.

“Monument Joseph Sec”
“Monument Joseph Sec”

Continuing, we followed the road that turns Rue Jacques de la Roque and visited the “Cathédrale Saint- Sauveur”.

“Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur”
“Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur”

“Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur” is a striking architectural blend of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles, reflecting centuries of construction from the 5th to the 18th century. Built on the site of a former Roman temple, possibly dedicated to Apollo, the Cathedral embodies the deep historical layers of Aix-en-Provence.

Inside the cathedral
Inside the Cathedral

The interior houses many works of art, but the most remarkable one is the triptych by Nicolas Froment, The Burning Bush, commissioned by King René of Anjou in the 15th century.

The Burning Bush
“The Burning Bush”

“Cathédrale Saint-Sauveur” is a spiritual and historical centrepiece of Aix, embodying the city’s layered past and a visit to this important building should not be missed.

After the visit to the Cathedral, we continued to “Place de l’Hôtel de Ville” (Town Hall Square). The Town Hall building was built in the middle of the 17th century and is in a classical style. There is a clock tower next to it that was built in 1510. There are other old buildings on this square, such as the Corn Exchange and the Thermal Springs, to complete the scene of this beautiful location.

From there, we continued and passed through “Place Richelme” where a food market was taking place. We looked around the market full of locals doing their shopping and admired the fresh produce on sale.

“Place Richelme”
“Place Richelme”

We continued to “Place d’Albertas”. It is an elegant square showcasing Baroque architecture buildings that are part of a set of four mansions bordering the square. In front of the square there is a beautiful fountain harmonising very well with the baroque buildings. During our visit, the fountain was being restored and had metal frames around it.

“Place d’Albertas”
“Place d’Albertas”

Following on our stroll through Aix, we stopped at “Fountaine du Roi René” and the Church Saint Jean de Malte. We also passed through the “Place des Quatre Dolphins”, another charming fountain.

We followed on in the direction of “Cours Mirabeau”, a famous tree-lined avenue, full of commerce, restaurants and cafés, being one of the most popular places in town. “Cours Mirabeau” is decorated with many fountains, and the most famous is the “Fountaine de La Rotonde”, which is also a roundabout at the end of the avenue. On “Cours Mirabeau”, we also looked at the “Fountaine Moussue”

Cours Mirabeau
“Cours Mirabeau”
“Fountaine de La Rotonde”
“Fountaine de La Rotonde”

“Fountaine Moussue” was built in 1666, and was the first one built on “Cours Mirabeau”. The water on this fountain is 18 degrees centigrade and is a rock covered in moss. The vegetation was built over decades and makes it a very interesting and different fountain.

“Fountaine Moussue”
“Fountaine Moussue”

We pressed on and went to “Place des Cardeurs” where there is another fountain, “Fountaine Des Cardeurs”. There are many restaurants on this square and we picked one to have some lunch before continuing with our trip.

“Fountaine Des Cardeurs"
“Fountaine Des Cardeurs”

We chose a restaurant called “Le Papagaio” and we had a lovely lunch there. We particularly enjoyed the pea soup that we had, it was delicious.

Our Pea Soup
Our Pea Soup

After lunch, we finished our visit to Aix-en-Provence as we still needed to drive to Arles, where we would be based for the night. So, we walked through the centre back again to the car park and drove in the direction of Arles.

For those of you that will spend more time in Aix than we did, I would recommend the following tour visiting the lavender fields of Provence.

I can also recommend this walking tour with a local guide that will explain the history, delights and secrets of Aix-en-Provence. Book it HERE.

The Clock Tower
The Clock Tower

It took us about an hour to get to Arles via the A8, and we went straight to the guest house we had booked for the night. It was called “Maison Douce Arles”, and it was in a very good location with a garage where we could park the car (for an extra fee of course).

We were very happy with the guest house. It was clean and very well decorated in a character building. We enjoyed our stay there even though it was for only one night.

Below is a map showing the places we visited in Arles on that day:

Before going on what we did after, let’s learn a little bit about Arles …

A LITTLE BIT ABOUT ARLES

Arles, is a city with deep Roman roots and a rich artistic legacy. Founded as a Greek settlement, it became a major Roman colony in 46 BC under Julius Caesar. Its strategic location along the Rhône River made it a key trade and military hub.

Arles
“Arles”

The city’s Roman heritage is still visible today in landmarks like the well-preserved amphitheatre, which once held 20,000 spectators, the ancient theatre, the Alyscamps necropolis, and the ruins of the Roman circus.

“Arènes d’Arles”
“Arènes d’Arles”

During the Middle Ages, Arles remained an important religious and commercial centre, serving as the capital of the Kingdom of Arles in the Holy Roman Empire. The Romanesque Saint-Trephine Church, with its intricate sculptures, reflects this era’s influence.

Cloister Saint Trophime
“Cloiter Saint Trophime”

In the 19th century, Arles gained artistic fame when Vincent van Gogh lived there in 1888–89, producing over 300 works, including Café Terrace at Night, The Yellow House and Starry, Starry Night. His time in Arles marked one of his most prolific and transformative creative periods.

Starry, Starry Night Point
“Starry, Starry Night Point”

Today, Arles is known for its historical sites, vibrant arts scene, and annual “Rencontres d’Arles” photography festival.

There is a nice tour in Arles called “Following the steps of Van Gogh” which I would certainly have taken if I had more time in Arles. You can book this tour HERE.

VISITING ARLES – DAY 1

After check-in, we went out to explore Arles. It was still early, and because it was summer, nighttime was not until about 9 or 10 pm, so we had plenty of time to explore.

From the guest house, we walked on Boulevard des Lices to “Jardin d’été” (Summer Garden). We crossed the garden and went to visit the “Théâtre Antique d’Arles”. You can get a combined ticket to see this theatre and other sites in Arles at the ticket office of the theatre, and we did just that.

“Jardin d’été”, Arles
“Jardin d’été”, Arles

The theatre is Roman and, from the 1st century, built on the reign of Caesar Augustus. It is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage as part of the Arles Roman and Romanesque Monuments. In Roman times, it could accommodate up to 8000 people.

“Théâtre Antique d’Arles”
“Théâtre Antique d’Arles”

Nowadays, only a few parts of it still survive. There is a video on the site that explains a bit more of the theatre history, which is very informative and educational.

“Théâtre Antique d’Arles”
“Théâtre Antique d’Arles”

From there, we walked to the “Arènes d’Arles” nearby. This one was built in 90 AD and is in better condition than the “Théâtre Antique” and could hold up to 20.000 people. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage site as part of a group of Roman Monuments in Arles.

“Arènes d’Arles”
“Arènes d’Arles”

An interesting fact about this theatre is that after the fall of the Roman Empire in the 5th century, it became a shelter for the population of Arles and became a fortress with four towers built and incorporated into the structure. Inside the structure they built more than 200 houses, and it became a town that survived until the late 18th century when expropriation of the houses began. The building became an arena again and in 1830 the first event took place in the arena.

“Arènes d’Arles”
“Arènes d’Arles”

Our next visit was to “Cloister of Saint Trophime”, adjoining the Church of Saint Trophime. It is a significant site and the starting point of the Via Tolosana to Santiago de Compostela, Spain. It was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1981.

"Cloister Saint Trophime"
“Cloister Saint Trophime”

The cloister construction started after the church was completed, and the north and east galleries contain exceptional Romanesque sculptures and carved capitals telling stories of the Bible.

The south and west galleries contain sculptures with scriptural depictions in the Gothic style. It is an amazing site that deserved the restoration work in 2008 by the World Monuments Fund.

"Cloister Saint Trophime"
“Cloister Saint Trophime”

After the cloister, we visited the church. The “Church of Saint Trophime” is a Roman Catholic church and was built between the 12th and 15th centuries in a Romanesque style. The sculptures over the portal and the adjacent cloister are fine examples of Romanesque sculpture in Arles. The church was also designated a UNESCO site.

There is a private guide tour of Arles, exploring the history and culture of the town that can be booked HERE.

"Church of Saint Trophime"
“Church of Saint Trophime”

After the church, we went back to our guest house for a shower before going out again.

We left after showering in the direction of the River Rhône and the “Starry Starry Night” point. This is the place where Van Gogh painted his famous painting. We wanted to see the sunset at that place.  We didn’t have to wait too long; soon, the sun was setting on the horizon, proportionating a beautiful sky. We could understand why Van Gogh picked that spot to paint his masterpiece. It was beautiful!

Starry, Starry Night Point
“Starry, Starry Night Point”

Once the night was set, we started walking back, looking for a place where we could eat. It was Monday, and everything was closed. The town looked like a ghost town, with almost no one on the streets or barely any cars.

Arles in a silent night
Arles in a silent night

The restaurant we had in mind was closed on Mondays, so we couldn’t go there. All other restaurants that looked half descent were also closed. In the end, we stopped at a pizza place near our guest house on Rue du Président Wilson called “Ice to Ice”. It was the only place we found open on that day.

It was not very good, the pizza was horrible and the wine the cheapest, bad quality you can get. Thanks God Google is showing it permanently closed!

Arles at night
Arles at night

At least we were close to our guest house and after eating we just crashed with tiredness after such a busy day. We were looking forward to the next day, though. We had a tour of the “Camargue” booked for the morning. I will tell you all about it in my next post.

Below is a reel from The Travelling Surveyor Instagram account with more photos of Aix-en-Provence and Arles. Check it out and follow me on Instagram.

The streets of Arles at night
The streets of Arles at night

I hope this post will give you some idea of what can be done in a day in Aix-en-Provence and Arles and will help you plan your own visit there.

HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR TRIP TO AIX-EN-PROVENCE AND ARLES

Below you will find a list of what to visit, where to stay and where to eat in Aix-en-Provence and Arles. I classified each place as follows:

BOLD – Visited, tried and recommended

NOT BOLD – Not visited or tried, but planning to visit or try and heard very good reviews

*** – Excellent

** – Good

* – OK

£££ – Expensive

££ – Fair and affordable

£ – Cheap

PLEASE NOTE: Every hotel, restaurants and attractions I mention on my blogs are not sponsored reviews and we always paid the full price when visiting. We give our own opinion of the place and detail our experience, good or bad.

THINGS TO DO IN AIX-EN-PROVENCE

ATTRACTIONS IN AIX-EN-PROVENCE

1 – Monument Joseph Sec – ***

2 – Cathédrale Saint Sauveur – ***

3 – Place de l”Hôtel de Ville and the Clock Tower- ***

4 – Place Richelme – ***

5 – Place d’Albertas – ***

6 – Fountaine du Roi René – ***

7 – Church Saint Jean de Malte – ***

8 – Place des Quatre Dolphins – ***

9 – Fountaine de La Rotonde – ***

10 – Fountaine Moussue – ***

11 – Cours Mirabeau – ***

12 – Place des Cardeurs – ***

13 – Atélier Cézanne

THINGS TO DO IN ARLES

ATTRACTIONS IN ARLES

1 – Jardin d’étê – ***

2 – Théâtre Antique d’Arles – ***

3 – Arénes d’Arles – ***

4 – Cloister of Saint Trophime – ***

5 – Church of Saint Trophime – ***

6 – Starry, Starry Night Point – ***

WHERE TO STAY

ACCOMMODATION IN AIX-EN-PROVENCE AND ARLES

1 – Le Concorde – 3* – ££

2 – Hôtel Cézanne Boutique-Hotel – 4* – ££

3 – Hôtel Bellegarde by Viktor – 3* – ££

4 – Maison Douce Arles – 3* – ££

5 – Hôtel du Musée – 3* – ££

6 – Hôtel & Spa Jules César – 5 * – £££

If you prefer to look for your own accommodation, search and book via the below widget:

I use affiliate links such as the links above for Booking.com, Get your Guide, Viator and others. It means that if you use any of my links to make a booking, I will get a small commission from the partners I’m affiliated with without any additional cost to you. Please, use the links provided when making a booking, this is a way of supporting blogs like this so we can continue writing informative and interesting posts. I’m very thankful for that.

BEST PLACES TO EAT IN AIX AND ARLES

RESTAURANTS IN AIX-EN-PROVENCE AND ARLES

1 – Le Papagaio – ££ – ***

2 – Les Fils à Mamam – ££

3 – La Bouchée – ££

4 – L’Oriel Restaurant – £££

5 – Jardin des Arts – ££

6 – Le Couchon qui fume – ££

If you tried any of my recommendations above, please send me a message and tell me about your experience good or bad, so I can update the list accordingly. Thanks!

If you enjoyed reading this post you might also like to read:

On this trip to France:

1 – Lyon – Day 1

2 – Lyon – Day 2

3 – Marseille – Day 1

4 – Marseille – Day 2

5 – Porquerolles Island

6 – Saint-Tropez/Port Grimaud/Grimaud

7 – Monaco

8 – Cannes

9 – Aix-en-Provence and Arles

10 – Camargue and Arles – Coming Soon

11 – Avignon – Coming Soon

12 – Dijon – Coming Soon

13 – Fontainebleau – Coming Soon

14 – Paris – Day 1 – Coming Soon

15 – Paris – Day 2 – Coming Soon

16 – Paris – Day 3 – Coming Soon

USEFUL SITES

1 – Aix-en-Provence Tourist Office

2 – Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Tourisme – Aix en-Provence

3 – Provence-Alpes-Côte D’Azur Tourisme – Arles

4 – Arles Tourisme

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