Are you planning a Brazilian getaway and wondering if Paraty deserves a spot on your itinerary? Let me save you the suspense: the answer is a resounding, absolute yes.
Our Brazilian Road Trip Route
Our visit to Paraty was a highlight of a massive, multi-leg Brazilian road trip. We rolled in fresh from the charming mountain town of Cunha, with our sights set on the coastal paradise of Ilha Bela next.
After that, we planned to loop back to our temporary base in São Vicente before heading south to explore Paraná state, specifically Pontal do Paraná and Curitiba. Suffice it to say, our GPS was working overtime.
In this comprehensive guide, I’m breaking down everything we did in Paraty, from the absolute best things to see and do, to where you should sleep and eat. Consider this your ultimate Paraty cheat sheet.
As regular readers know, we are absolute champions of independent travel. For this itinerary, we explored completely at our own pace using a rental car booked through Discover Cars, which made navigating incredibly smooth.
That being said, if your idea of a relaxing holiday does not involve white-knuckle driving on foreign, unfamiliar roads, you can skip the logistical headache entirely.
You can leave the planning, navigating, and driving to the professionals by booking a fully organised excursion through TourRadar. They offer a fantastic variety of curated itineraries designed to fit every budget and travel style.
Feel free to browse their incredible trips through my exclusive links. Even better, if you book using my special promo code RoseG50 at checkout, you will score a great discount on your next big adventure!
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The Journey: Cruising the Estrada Real
Our Paraty adventure officially kicked off around 9:30 am, when we checked out of the lovely “Hotel Fazenda São Francisco” in Cunha right after breakfast. From there, we joined the historic “Estrada Real” (The Royal Road) heading toward the coast.
The drive took us roughly an hour and a half, and to call it “scenic” would be an understatement. The “Estrada Real” is a breathtakingly beautiful route that twists and winds its way down the mountains toward the sea. We spent the entire time jaw-dropped at the views…
Home Sweet (Almost Perfect) Home: Our Paraty Accommodation
Upon arriving in Paraty, our first mission was to track down our accommodation. Official check-in wasn’t until 2:00 PM, and since we arrived quite early, we fully expected a bit of a wait. Fortunately, the hosts were incredibly accommodating and let us check in ahead of schedule. The cleaners were still putting on the finishing touches, but they graciously let us drop our bags and settle in.
Location-wise, the house was a total winner. It sat on a lovely corner plot right across from “Jabaquara Beach”, and was just a short distance from the historic centre of Paraty. As a bonus for anyone planning a group road trip, it had more than enough parking space for both vehicles we were travelling in (ours and my brother’s).
The house itself? Well, it fell firmly into the “classic holiday rental” category. You know the type—where the owners seem to think, “Hey, it’s just a holiday home, who needs functional hardware?”
Our en-suite bathroom, for instance, was a minimalist masterpiece in the worst way possible: it featured absolutely nowhere to hang a towel, and the toilet paper holder was entirely non-existent. While there were a few other quirky, missing features I won’t bore you with, the house was ultimately perfectly fine for a short one- or two-night stay.
If you want to take a gamble on the missing towel hooks yourself, you can check it out HERE.
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT PARATY
The Lay of the Land: Paraty’s Geography
Nestled along Brazil’s breathtaking “Costa Verde” (Green Coast), Paraty is the southernmost municipality in the state of Rio de Janeiro. Geographically speaking, the town hits the absolute jackpot: it sits right on the edge of the tranquil Bay of Ilha Grande, while the dramatic, jungle-clad peaks of the Serra da Bocaina mountains rise up to 1,300 metres directly behind it.
Because it is sandwiched between the rainforest and the Atlantic Ocean, Paraty is surrounded by some of the most pristine biodiversity on Earth. In fact, over 80% of its territory is environmentally protected, serving as a refuge for rare jaguars, monkeys, and exotic birds.
A Quick History: Gold, Pirates, and a 250-Year Nap
Originally inhabited by the indigenous Guaianá people (who called it “Parachi”, meaning “river of fish”, Paraty was officially chartered by Portuguese settlers in the 17th century. But the town’s real claim to fame came in 1696 when gold was discovered in the neighbouring state of Minas Gerais.
Paraty suddenly became the official gateway for the “Caminho do Ouro” (The Gold Trail). For decades, every ounce of Brazilian gold destined for the crowns of Europe passed through this tiny port, which naturally made it a favourite playground for ambitious pirates looking to intercept the shipments.
The Great Collapse (and Blessing in Disguise):
In 1732, the Portuguese built a flatter, more direct route straight to Rio de Janeiro, bypassing Paraty entirely. The town suffered a major economic crash, experienced a brief 19th-century comeback fuelled by the coffee trade, and then completely went to sleep when the railways bypassed it again.
For nearly a century, Paraty was completely isolated from the modern world. Because “progress” forgot about it until a paved highway was built in the 1970s, its stunning 18th-century colonial architecture remained entirely untouched, frozen perfectly in time.
What to See and Do in Paraty:
- The Historic Centre: The main event. It is a car-free zone where only pedestrians, bicycles, and horses are allowed. Walking the streets feels like stepping out of a time machine. Check out the iconic, white-washed colonial buildings adorned with brightly painted doors and windows.
- Forte Defensor Perpétuo: A short, 15-minute hike through a lush bamboo forest brings you to this historic hilltop fort. While the fort itself is cool, scrambling down the surrounding cliffs gives you the absolute best panoramic view of the entire port.
- Island-Hopping and Hidden Beaches: Rent a colourful wooden boat, called a “batoque” from the pier to explore the bay. Some of the region’s best spots, like the spectacular fjord of Saco do Mamanguá or the secluded sands of Lula Beach are only accessible by water.
- Boutique Shopping: Unlike many tourist towns crammed with generic plastic souvenirs, Paraty is famous for its high-quality artisanal boutiques. Stroll the cobblestones to find airy linen clothing, hand-painted ceramics, and unique home decor.
3 Mind-Blowing Facts about Paraty
- The Streets Were Built to Flood: If you notice the streets in the old town occasionally turning into shallow rivers, don’t panic—it’s completely intentional! In the 18th century, engineers intentionally designed the streets below sea level. During monthly full tides, seawater rushes into the town corridors, acts as a natural toilet, and washes the streets clean.
Does the tide flood the houses? No, it does not flood the houses. Portuguese colonial engineers designed the town with clever architectural safeguards to ensure the seawater only washes the streets without damaging any property.
When this happens, locals don’t panic; they adapt! Shop owners simply lay down wooden planks across their doorways so tourists can walk inside without getting wet, and some locals even paddle small canoes down the streets.
- It’s a UNESCO Double Threat: In 2019, Paraty and Ilha Grande were jointly declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Crucially, it is a mixed site, honoured both for its incredible 18th-century cultural architecture and its rich natural Atlantic Forest biodiversity.
- The Capital of Cachaça: Paraty is one of the oldest and most revered production hubs for “cachaça” (Brazil’s famous sugarcane spirit) in the entire country. It is so famous for it that during colonial times, the word “Paraty” was literally used as a synonym for cachaça! Make sure to try a “Jorge Amado” cocktail while you’re there, a local drink made with passion fruit, lime, and clove-and-cinnamon-infused cachaça.
VISITING PARATY
Lunch by the Waves: Jabaquara Beach, “Casa Nossa da Praia” Kiosk
Once the cars were unloaded and we’d freshened up, our stomachs told us it was officially lunchtime. We wandered over to one of the vibrant beach kiosks lining the shore of “Jabaquara Beach”, “Nossa Casa da Praia” (Our beach house) kiosk.
The meal was an absolute triumph. We treated ourselves to a feast of crispy fried prawns and perfectly fried fish, served alongside rice, fries, and a wonderfully fresh hearts of palm salad. Highly recommended!
Stepping Back in Time: The Historic Centre
With full bellies, we made the short drive over to Paraty’s famous historic centre. The entire area is a colonial time capsule, beautifully preserved to look exactly as it did centuries ago. Today, many of these grand old white houses have been converted into trendy boutiques and cosy restaurants, giving the cobblestone streets a lively and incredibly welcoming atmosphere.
We left our rental car at “Estacionamento da Matriz” (the Main Church car park) and set off on foot. The landmark “Igreja da Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios” (The main church of our Lady of the Medicines) was located right near our parking spot, but unfortunately for us, the doors were locked tighter than a pirate’s treasure chest.
Undeterred, we spent the afternoon leisurely drifting through the vehicle-free streets, snapping endless photos of the architecture, ducking into local shops, and pausing for a well-deserved drink break at a charming café. Paraty is just overflowing with character. Eventually, our feet demanded a strike, so we headed back to the house for a quick siesta.
Burgers and Long-Awaited Reunions
That evening, we went for dinner at “Quintal da Vó, Hamburgueria Artesanal” (which translates to the lovely (Granny’s Backyard, Artisanal Hamburgers). The location was special for reasons beyond the menu: we were meeting up with an old friend who had relocated to Paraty. Having not seen each other in years, it was wonderful to catch up, share life updates, and reminisce about mutual friends we’d lost touch with over the years.
As for the burgers? They were nothing short of sensational. If you find yourself in Paraty, do your taste buds a huge favour and eat there. After a fantastic night of food and friendship, we said our goodbyes and retreated back to our base.
Day Trip: Trading Paraty for Trindade
The following morning, we fired up the engine and set our sights on “Trindade”, a stunning coastal village sitting right on the border of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo states, roughly a 40-minute drive from Paraty.
En route, we couldn’t resist pulling over at a spectacular scenic viewpoint called “Pedras do Paraíso” (Paradise Rocks). We burned some serious phone storage taking photos before continuing our journey.
Arriving in Trindade, we quickly realised that public parking is a bit of a myth. To save ourselves a logistical headache, we opted for a private parking lot right on “Rua Principal” (The Main Road) and took the short, easy stroll down to the ocean.
Paradise Found at Praia do Rancho
The beach we arrived at, “Praia do Rancho”, is breathtakingly beautiful. The shoreline is dotted with an array of inviting bars and restaurants, and we wasted zero time claim-staking a prime table directly on the sand at “Maresias Bar and Restaurant”.
While some of our crew took a relaxing stroll along the water’s edge to soak in the paradise views, the rest of us got down to business. It was a bit too early for a full lunch, so I decided it was the perfect hour to try the local legend: the “Jorge Amado” cocktail. It was absolutely delicious and lives up to every bit of the hype!
We spent two blissful hours completely melting into the beach vibe before deciding to head back to Paraty to track down some lunch there.
Lunch by the Pound: Sabor da Terra
Once back in Paraty, we tracked down a fantastic local dining staple:” Sabor da Terra” on “Avenida Roberto Silveira”. This is a classic Brazilian “por quilo” (per kilo) restaurant. For the uninitiated, it’s a brilliant concept: you pile your plate high from a massive buffet, pop it onto a scale at the end, and pay strictly for the weight of your food. The variety here was immense, and everyone walked away perfectly satisfied with their custom culinary creations.
Island Cruises and Changing Tides
After lunch, we gravitated right back toward the historic centre for round two of shopping. However, my sister-in-law and I quickly decided that the open ocean was calling our names, so we opted for a boat ride. The rest of the group, proving they are excellent at holidaying, decided their time was better spent waiting it out at a café/bar with a round of cold beers.
We strolled down to the harbour and chartered a boat to take us for a cruise around the surrounding tropical islands and secluded beaches. It was an incredibly relaxing, blissful hour and a half on the water.
Catching the Natural Street Wash:
When we docked back at the harbour, we got to witness Paraty’s most famous party trick firsthand: the tide was rising, and seawater was actively spilling into the historic streets! It is an incredibly surreal and fascinating phenomenon to witness in person, and we made sure to burn some more serious camera storage capturing the moment.
After retrieving our happily caffeinated (and slightly buzzed) travel companions from the café/bar, we headed back to the house to freshen up.
Dinner at Paraty’s Finest: Banana da Terra
For our final evening, we had reservations at “Banana da Terra”. This is widely considered the poshest culinary ticket in town, and it certainly lived up to the reputation. The atmosphere was gorgeous, and the food was incredibly sophisticated. As you might expect from a top-tier establishment, it isn’t cheap, but it is absolutely worth every single penny.
We had an exceptional dinner, with every dish hitting the absolute mark. Afterwards, we headed back to the house for an early night; the day’s coastal antics had finally caught up with us, and we were completely exhausted.
The following morning, we packed up the cars, said a fond goodbye to Paraty, and pointed our GPS south toward “Ilha Bela” (Beautiful Island). But that is a story for next week’s post. Stay tuned!
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT
Below you will find a list of what to visit, where to stay and where to eat in Paraty. I classified each place as follows:
BOLD – Visited, tried and recommended
NOT BOLD – Not visited or tried, but planning to visit or try and heard very good reviews
RED – Visited and tried but do not recommend, avoid or be cautious
*** – Excellent
** – Good
* – OK
£££ – Expensive
££ – Fair and affordable
PLEASE NOTE: Every hotel, restaurants and attractions I mention on my blogs are not sponsored reviews and we always paid the full price when visiting. We give our own opinion of the place and detail our experience, good or bad.
THINGS TO DO
ATTRACTIONS
1 – The Historic Centre – ***
2 – Trindade – ***
3 – Boat Ride – ***
WHERE TO STAY
ACCOMMODATION
1 – Safira House – 3* – ££ – ** – (We stayed here)
2 – Pousada Aconchego – ££
3 – Boutique Hotel Carpe Diem – 4* – ££
4 – Sdesign Paraty Hotel – 5* – £££
5 – Maris Paraty – 4* – £££
6 – Casa Duas Suites – Centro Historico – 4* – £££
If you prefer to look for your own accommodation, search and book via the below widget:
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BEST PLACES TO EAT
RESTAURANTS
1 – Casa Nossa da Praia – *** – ££ (We ate here)
2 – Quintal da Vó Hamburgueria Artesanal – *** – £ (We ate here)
3 – Sabor da Terra – *** – ££ – (We ate here)
4 – Banana da Terra – *** – £££ – (We ate Here)
5 – Quintal das Letras – £££
6 – Restaurante Bartholomeu Contemporâneo – £££
We only tried the ones in bold , the others are the result of my researches and ones that I would like to try. If you tried any of my recommendations above, please send me a message and tell me about your experience good or bad, so I can update the list accordingly. Thanks!
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