Ever wondered if Ilhabela truly lives up to its name? If this legendary Brazilian island has been lingering on your travel bucket list, you have come to the right place. Consider this your ultimate guide to everything this coastal paradise has to offer.
Our Brazilian road trip kicked off from our home base in São Vicente, leading us first to Cunha, a vibrant mountain town bursting with character and natural beauty. From there, we wound our way to Paraty, where we were completely captivated by the impeccably preserved colonial architecture and pristine beaches. Now, we are setting our gears for the next highly anticipated stop on our itinerary: Ilhabela.
This island holds a deeply nostalgic place in my heart. Years ago, back when I still lived in Brazil, a close-knit group of friends and I would routinely rent a house at “Praia da Feiticeira” to conquer long bank holiday weekends together.
It is also the exact spot where my husband and I spent our honeymoon, making it doubly special. We hadn’t returned since those newlywed days, keeping the memories tucked away in a warm, fuzzy blanket of nostalgia.
Naturally, with the island sitting directly on our route back to São Vicente, we couldn’t pass up the chance to introduce our daughter to a piece of our personal history.
As regular readers know, we are absolute champions of independent travel. For this itinerary, we explored completely at our own pace using a rental car booked through Discover Cars, which made navigating incredibly smooth.
That being said, if your idea of a relaxing holiday does not involve white-knuckle driving on foreign, unfamiliar roads, you can skip the logistical headache entirely.
You can leave the planning, navigating, and driving to the professionals by booking a fully organised excursion through TourRadar. They offer a fantastic variety of curated itineraries designed to fit every budget and travel style.
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We rolled out of Paraty around 10:00 AM, making a quick but necessary detour to say a final goodbye to a dear friend at her workplace. The drive to Ilha Bela typically clocks in at just over three hours, but we broke up the journey with a lunch stop in “Caraguatatuba”.
We stumbled upon an excellent “por quilo” restaurant along the highway; called “Alecrim”, and the food certainly hit the spot. Satisfied and refuelled, we hit the road once more.
To actually reach the island, you must catch the ferry from “São Sebastião”. This crossing can notoriously transform into a test of human patience during peak season, weekends, and holidays.
Fortunately, luck was on our side. Since we timed our trip perfectly outside of those chaotic peak times, we sailed right through with absolutely zero queuing. Before we knew it, we had crossed the channel and arrived at our temporary home.
For our stay, we booked a spacious four-bedroom house. It had the absolute luxury of all en-suite bathrooms and located in the charming area of “Praia de Santa Teresa”.
This property was a serious upgrade from our accommodation in Paraty. It was a stunning holiday home fitted with gorgeous fixtures, high-end furniture, and a kitchen that would make any home chef happy. Every single room felt incredibly spacious, and the secure, gated driveway easily accommodated our two cars.
We absolutely fell in love with the place and cannot recommend it enough if you are travelling with a large family or a big group of friends.
The only hitch in our perfect arrival? Ilha Bela decided to welcome us with a downpour. While the rain eventually let up after a few hours, the sky remained stubbornly overcast and threatened a second round.
Given that we had arrived late in the afternoon and the weather wasn’t cooperating, we opted for the ultimate cosy backup plan: staying in and ordering local pizzas.
We spent the rest of the evening caught up in great conversation, enjoying a few drinks, and eventually heading to bed early to recover from the long drive from Paraty. The real exploration of the island would just have to wait until morning.
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT ILHABELA
The Geography: A Dramatic Tropical Wilderness
- Mountainous and Untamed: Unlike many flat holiday islands, Ilhabela is actually the crest of a massive underwater mountain range. It is home to some of the highest peaks in the state of São Paulo, including “Pico de São Sebastião”, which towers over 1,300 meters above sea level.
- Virgin Atlantic Rainforest: Roughly 85% of the island is protected within the Ilhabela State Park,. It is a designated UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. This means it holds one of the largest remaining contiguous stretches of pristine Atlantic Rainforest (Mata Atlântica) left on Earth.
- A Tale of Two Coasts: The island has a dual personality. The western side (facing the mainland continent) is calm, urbanised, and sheltered. The eastern side (facing the open Atlantic Ocean) is wild, rugged, battered by heavy surf, and home to remote, breathtaking beaches like the famous “Praia dos Castelhanos” and “Bonete”.
The History: From Indigenous Sanctuaries to Colonial Cash Crops
- First Inhabitants: Long before the Europeans arrived, the island was used by the indigenous Tupinambá people. They called the island “Ciribaí”, which translates beautifully to “Serene Place“.
- The Re-Baptism: The famous explorer Americo Vespucci cruised by on January 20, 1502. Following the classic Portuguese maritime playbook, he officially named it “Ilha de São Sebastião” to match the saint of the day. It didn’t officially adopt the name “Ilhabela” (“Beautiful Island”) until 1945.
- Sugar, Coffee, and Ruins: During the 18th and 19th centuries, the island was transformed by the wealth of the sugarcane and coffee booms. The historic ruins scattered around the island, like the Engenho D’Água, are the remnants of old sugar plantations and cachaça distilleries. This was a highly prosperous, yet dark colonial era.
Fast & Quirky Facts
- The Pirate Safehouse: Because the Portuguese crown initially banned heavy civilian settlement on the offshore islands to prevent illegal trading, Ilhabela spent the 16th and 17th centuries functioning as the ultimate pirate hideout. Infamous English privateers like Thomas Cavendish used it as a strategic base to ambush treasure-laden ships,. It fuels local legends of buried gold that remain hidden in the jungle to this day.
- The Shipwreck Capital: The waters surrounding the island are notoriously treacherous for navigators. Dozens of historical vessels, ocean liners, and cargo ships have met their demise against the hidden rocks here. This earned the region a reputation as the Shipwreck Capital of Brazil.
- The Infamous “Borrachudos”: You cannot write an honest post about Ilhabela without mentioning its fiercest local resident: the “borrachudo”. These tiny, relentless sandflies are legendary for their painful bites. Local lore states they love tourist blood, and regular bug spray doesn’t stand a chance. You specifically need the local citronella-based oil blends to survive them!
- The Sailing Capital: On a grander note, Ilhabela is formally recognised as the Sailing Capital of Latin America. Every July, it hosts the acclaimed Ilhabela Sailing Week, drawing elite yachting teams and enthusiasts from all over the globe
WHAT TO VISIT AND DO IN ILHABELA
Iconic Beaches: Wild Surf vs. Calm Shallows
With over 40 distinct beaches, the island has two completely different coastal personalities:
- The Wild Eastern Coast (Off-Road Adventure):
- Praia dos Castelhanos: This is the jewel of the island. It is a massive, wild beach famously shaped like a heart when viewed from the panoramic lookout point. Reaching it is an adventure in itself. You must book a rugged 4×4 Land Rover tour through the dense jungle trails to get there.
- Praia do Bonete: Routinely voted one of the most beautiful isolated beaches in Brazil. It has no road access; you must either brave a strenuous jungle trek or hire a local fisherman to navigate the open-ocean waves.
- The Calm Western Coast (Relaxed & Accessible):
- Praia da Feiticeira: Perfect if you prefer tranquil, wave-free waters. It features a historic colonial plantation house right on the sand.
- Praia do Jabaquara: Tucked away on the northern tip of the island, this beach is an untouched paradise where the green Atlantic Rainforest spills directly into the crystal-clear ocean.
Chase Majestic Jungle Waterfalls
With its mountainous terrain, Ilhabela boasts hundreds of waterfalls hidden inside its protected national park boundaries:
- Cachoeira do Gato: A staggering 80-metre-high waterfall. It is accessible via a relatively short but sweaty jungle trail leading off the sand at “Praia dos Castelhanos”. It allows you to swim in a massive freshwater pool under a canopy of green.
- Cachoeira da Toca: One of the most famous tourist-friendly stops on the island. It features a natural, moss-covered rock waterslide that shoots you directly into a refreshing natural swimming hole.
Catch the Giants of the Ocean
- Whale & Dolphin Watching: If you time your travel itinerary between May and August, the channel becomes a major highway for migrating Humpback Whales (Baleias Jubarte) heading north. You can secure spots on specialised boat excursions out of Hostel da Vila or “Perequê” to witness these giants breaching.
Explore Underwater World & Marine Sanctuaries
- Ilha das Cabras (Goat Island): Located just off the southern coast, this tiny island is a fully protected ecological marine sanctuary. Its exceptionally calm, transparent waters make it the absolute premier spot on the island for casual snorkelling and scuba diving tours to spot sea turtles, seahorses, and vibrant schools of fish.
- Wreck Diving: If you are a certified diver, you can explore the island’s famous “Shipwreck Capital” reputation by diving historical artificial reefs like the “Naufrágio Velásquez” (sunk in 1908) or the “Naufrágio Therezina”.
Stroll through “A Vila” (The Historic Centre)
- Charming Colonial Hub: When the sun goes down, head straight to The Village (A Vila), the historical heart of the island. Its beautiful cobblestone streets are lined with preserved colonial architecture, upscale boutiques, open-air bars, and fantastic seafood restaurants serving traditional “Caiçara” cuisine. It is the perfect place to grab a caipirinha and enjoy the cooling evening ocean breeze.
- Paróquia Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda e Bom Sucesso (Vila): The main historic church of the island. It was built in the early 18th century, featuring a beautiful interior and panoramic steps.
- Fazenda Engenho D’Água (Engenho D’Água Farm): A beautifully preserved 18th-century sugarcane plantation complex, complete with the main manor, production mills, and large historic aqueducts.
- Antiga Cadeia e Fórum (Vila): The historic former prison and courthouse building located right in the main square, now acting as the “Museu Náutico”.
- Mirante do Piúva & The Christ Statue: Located on the southern coastal road, this lookout point features a large statue of Christ overlooking the São Sebastião Channel. It is a fantastic spot to pull over for a quick photo offering a spectacular panoramic view of the yachts sailing between the island and the mainland.
- The Shipwreck Memorials: Scattered along the southern coastline, you will find various markers and small monuments dedicated to the victims and survivors of the island’s most famous maritime disasters, including the tragic sinking of the luxury liner “Principe de Astúrias” in 1916.
VISITING ILHABELA
We woke up the next morning to cloudy skies, but thankfully, the rain had decided to take a break. Eager to explore, we piled into the car and headed straight for Fazenda Engenho D’Água.
This beautifully preserved 18th-century sugarcane plantation sits directly in front of the beach. It offers a fascinating peek into the island’s colonial history.
We were treated to an excellent guided tour, where our guide broke down the rich (and complex) history of the “Engenho”.
The entire estate is highly compact and well-organised, allowing us to explore the historic manor, old sugar mills, and lush grounds easily in about an hour.
Just further down the coastal road, we transitioned from colonial history to monumental modern art at the “Exposição de Gilmar Pinna”.
If you think Ilhabela is only about working on your tan, think again. Right on the coastal road, you’ll run into a herd of three-metre-tall stainless-steel giants.
It’s an open-air exhibition by local legend Gilmar Pinna, who decided to rewrite the Stations of the Cross by giving Jesus a literal support group composed of Buddha, Ganesha, and Iemanjá. It is artistic, unexpected, deeply moving, and the perfect excuse to park the car and take a reflective walk by the water.
The Concept: A Multifaith Via Crucis
The exhibition is a breathtaking, monumental reimagining of the traditional Christian Via Crucis (the Stations of the Cross). It features 46 giant stainless-steel sculptures. Each figure stands over three metres tall and weighs a massive 300 kilograms, glinting dramatically against the backdrop of the tropical ocean.
What makes it truly unique is its beautifully bold message of religious tolerance and cultural diversity.
Instead of just depicting the classic biblical figures, Pinna shows Jesus Christ being comforted and assisted on his path to the “Calvario” by leaders and deities from major global religions:
- The 1st Station: As Pontius Pilate condemns Jesus to death, “Buddha” steps forward to embrace him in a gesture of universal compassion.
- The 2nd Station: When Jesus receives the heavy wooden cross, “Guru Nanak” (Sikhism) and “Lao-Tzu” (Taoism) scatter a pathway of petals to ease his first steps.
- Further Stations: Throughout the 15 stations, you will spot beautifully sculpted representations of Afro-Brazilian Orixás like “Iemanjá” and “Oxalá”, the indigenous spirit “Tupã”, Hindu deities “Krishna” and “Ganesha”, and the spiritist philosopher “Allan Kardec”.
Gilmar Pinna is an absolute legend on the northern coast. He actually started his career as a 10-year-old boy making sandcastles on the very beaches of Ilhabela. By age 12, he was winning regional sand-sculpting competitions before teaching himself how to manipulate heavy metals.
Today, his giant stainless-steel works are showcased globally in Italy, Spain, Switzerland, and Portugal.
A stop at this open-air art gallery is an absolute must if you find yourself in Ilhabela. It was incredibly interesting and provided the perfect, vibrant lift to an otherwise overcast day.
Appetites for art thoroughly satisfied, we drove over to “A Vila”, the island’s charming historic centre. We spent some time wandering the picturesque cobblestone streets before stopping at the “Igreja Nossa Senhora D’Ajuda e Bom Sucesso” (Church of Our Lady the Helper and of Good Success).
It is a beautifully simple, elegant church that definitely deserves a spot on your itinerary.
Right next on our list was the historic “Antiga Cadeia” (Old Jail) to visit the “Museu Náutico” (Nautical Museum) housed inside its former cells.
It is a brilliant experience where you can dive deep into the island’s dramatic maritime history. You can uncover the tragic secrets of major shipwrecks like the “Príncipe de Astúrias”, famously dubbed the “Brazilian Titanic“, and admire a vast array of authentic artefacts rescued from the ocean floor.
It is another fantastic cultural stop that proves the island has much more to offer than just its shoreline.
By the time we stepped back outside, our stomachs reminded us it was lunchtime. We grabbed a table at a local spot in the village called “Cheiro Verde”, which served up a delicious lunch.
Refuelled and ready for the road, we piled back into the cars to explore the island’s extensive coastline.
We charted a course west first, tracing the scenic coastal roads before doubling back to explore the eastern side. Naturally, we pulled over at every panoramic viewpoint we could find to snap some gorgeous photos.
We would have loved to make the iconic drive out to “Praia dos Castelhanos”, but the route requires navigating an unpaved jungle track.
After the heavy rain from the night before, we knew it would be a total mudbath. Unless you are driving a high-clearance, potent 4×4 vehicle, crossing to that wild side of the island after a downpour is just asking for trouble.
We decided to play it safe and skip it this time to avoid any unnecessary travel complications.
If you want to book a 4 x 4 Off-Road tour to “Praia dos Castelhanos” you can book it HERE.
After checking off both ends of the coastal highway, we headed back to our rental house for a well-deserved rest.
For dinner, we ventured out to a restaurant called “Sandara Comida Libanesa Artesanal”. The decor inside was absolutely stunning, and they served up a fantastic artisanal Lebanese feast. We had a lovely evening and can easily recommend it without a shadow of a doubt.
We wrapped up the night back at the house, lounging with a few drinks and catching up on good conversation. The following day marked the end of our brief island escape as we set gears back toward São Vicente.
We spent two nights back at our apartment, and by Sunday morning, we were hitting the road again. This time driving down to “Pontal do Paraná” to spend a week at my brother’s house.
We even snuck away to Curitiba for a quick overnight stay, but I will save all the details of that next adventure for my upcoming post!
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT
Below you will find a list of what to visit, where to stay and where to eat in Ilhabela. I classified each place as follows:
BOLD – Visited, tried and recommended
NOT BOLD – Not visited or tried, but planning to visit or try and heard very good reviews
RED – Visited and tried but do not recommend, avoid or be cautious
*** – Excellent
** – Good
* – OK
£££ – Expensive
££ – Fair and affordable
PLEASE NOTE: Every hotel, restaurants and attractions I mention on my blogs are not sponsored reviews and we always paid the full price when visiting. We give our own opinion of the place and detail our experience, good or bad.
THINGS TO DO
ATTRACTIONS
1 – Engenho D’Agua Farm – ***
2 – Exposição de Gilmar Pinna – ***
3 – Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Ajuda e do Bom Sucesso – ***
4 – Antiga Cadeia – ***
5 – Praia da Feiticeira
6 – Praia dos Castelhanos
7 – All other beaches
WHERE TO STAY
ACCOMMODATION
1 – Casa in Praia de Santa Teresa – Not available anymore!🥲 – (We stayed here)
2 – Chalé com vista para o mar – 4* – ££
3 – Casa no Centro Histórico – 4* – ££
4 – Vila Siriúba Hotel – 4* – ££
5 – Hotel Real Villa Bella – 4* – £££
6 – Hotel Vila Kebaya – 4* – £££
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BEST PLACES TO EAT
RESTAURANTS
1 – Mozzarello – £ – *** – (We ordered pizzas from here)
2 – Cheiro Verde – £ – ** (We ate here)
3 – Sandara – £££ – *** – (We ate here)
4 – Restaurante Manjericão – £££
5 – Allmirante – £££
6 – Restaurante Convés – ££
We only tried the ones in bold , the others are the result of my researches and ones that I would like to try. If you tried any of my recommendations above, please send me a message and tell me about your experience good or bad, so I can update the list accordingly. Thanks!
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