We had a great time in Palermo on the previous day, and we had a full day to explore more attractions in Palermo on our second day. I will tell you everything we did and visited in Palermo on Day 2, so you can have an idea of what to see and what is possible to visit in a day. To follow our trip in Sicily, read my previous posts about Catania, Taormina and Cefalù as well.
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We were travelling independently around the island with a hired car we booked with Discover Cars, as we are confident travellers and speak a bit of the language. However, if you prefer to be part of a tour and to have everything organised for you, I advise you to book a complete tour of the island with Tourradar. If you book via my link you can get a discount using this code: RoseG50.
We woke up after the first night in our lovely Heritage Collection B&B in the centre of Palermo. Contrary to the previous B&B, this one had a very comfortable bed and mattress.
After a filling breakfast served in the breakfast room, we left to start our explorations of the day.
Below is a map showing the places we visited in Palermo on Day 2:
We had tickets booked for 10 am for a tour called “No Mafia Walking Tour”. The meeting point was in front of Teatro Massimo. We walked down Via Maqueda until we arrived in front of the theatre and met the guide. There were many people there. They divided it into two groups of about 12 people on each group..
The tour started and we followed the guide through the streets of Palermo, while he explained the impact the Mafia had on Palermo and Sicily.
“No Mafia” Tour
The “No Mafia” tour in Palermo, is typically organised by the grassroots movement “Addiopizzo” Travel . It offers an eye-opening perspective on the history of the Sicilian Mafia and the inspiring civil resistance movement against it. It moves beyond popular media myths (like The Godfather) to reveal the reality of organised crime’s impact on local life.
The tour covers several key locations in the city’s historic centre, focusing on their connection to the Mafia and the anti-Mafia fight:
- Teatro Massimo
The starting point of the tour, a symbol of the city’s potential for rebirth after decades of Mafia influence. It is famously featured in a scene from The Godfather III.
You can book a guided tour of Teatro Massimo, one of Palermo’s most iconic buildings. Book this tour HERE.
- Wall of Legality (Il Muro della Legalità)
A powerful, long mural dedicated to the judges, prosecutors, and police officers who were killed by the Mafia while fighting for justice.
- Capo Street Market
A bustling open-air market where guides explain the complex relationship between the Mafia and local shopkeepers. They explain, how the extortion racket, or “pizzo,” historically operated.
The group stopped at this market for a drink of freshly squeezed pomegranate juice and rested a bit before continuing with the tour.
- Palermo Courthouse (Palazzo di Giustizia)
Visitors learn about the landmark Maxi Trial (1986-1987), which judicially proved the existence of Mafia and led to hundreds of convictions. It also talks about the tragic assassinations of the magistrates Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, who led the effort.
- Palermo Cathedral and City Hall (Palazzo Pretorio)
Stops at these central landmarks provide context on the historical involvement and relationship of the Catholic Church and local government with the Mafia.
- “Pizzo-Free” Businesses
Guides point out local shops and businesses that proudly display an orange “Addiopizzo” sticker. It signifies their refusal to pay extortion money and their participation in the ethical consumption campaign. The tour often includes a stop at one of these businesses (such as a gelateria) to support their courageous stand.
We stopped at a restaurant called “Le Angeliche”. The guide showed us the sticker and explained it was one of the places that stood up to the Mafia and refused to pay the “pizzo”. Coincidentally, without knowing about this fact, we had a booking at this restaurant for 8 pm on that night.
If you enjoy trying local food you can’t miss this Sicilian Street Food Tour. You will try a variety of street food at local food shops, small restaurants and bakeries.
Overall, the tour aims to educate visitors on how the Mafia has affected Sicily’s past and present. It highlights the courage and civic commitment of those working to keep the collective memory alive and resist organised crime.
It was a very educational and interesting tour, and I can only recommend it when you visit Palermo.
If you want to experience the same tour as we did, you can book this tour HERE. OR if you want to do a private walking tour with a local you can book this tour HERE.
It was lunch time, and after the tour, we went down Via Maqueda and stopped at “BIGA Genio e Farina”. It is a pizza restaurant worth trying. They offer a variety of pizzas and sandwiches, so we had lunch there, which was delicious. Very good quality pizza, and ideal for a quick lunch in between visits.
After lunch, we went to “Chiesa e Monasterio di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria”, passing through Quattro Canti and “Fontana Pretoria”.
Quattro Canti – Palermo
Quattro Canti, officially known as the Piazza Vigliena, is a stunning example of Sicilian Baroque architecture. It is located in the historic centre of Palermo. It is the intersection of the city’s two main ancient streets, the Corso Vittorio Emanuele and the Via Maqueda, dividing Palermo into four distinct historic quarters.
Completed in 1620, the octagonal piazza features four identical concave facades on the corners of the intersection. Each façade is a magnificent four-story structure designed by Giulio Lasso.
These façades are adorned with fountains, statues, and elaborate carvings, creating a harmonious and theatrical urban space. It is often described as an open-air theatre or “Teatro del Sole” (theatre of the sun) because at least one of the four sides is illuminated by the sun at any time of day.
Each of the four corner buildings follows a specific decorative theme. They are arranged in a hierarchy of the elements, the seasons, the local patron saints, and the Spanish kings. The design elements for each building are organised as follows:
- First Level (bottom): Fountains depicting the four seasons (Spring, Summer, Autumn, and Winter).
- Second Level: Statues of the four Spanish kings who ruled Sicily (Charles V, Philip II, Philip III, and Philip IV)
- Third Level (top): Statues of the four female patron saints of the ancient quarters of the city (Saint Cristina, Saint Ninfa, Saint Olivia, and Saint Agata). They were replaced as the city’s primary patron by Santa Rosalia in 1624.
Quattro Canti remains one of Palermo’s most iconic and photographed landmarks. It offers visitors a spectacular glimpse into the city’s rich history and architectural grandeur.
Fontana Pretoria – Palermo
The Fontana Pretoria is a monumental Renaissance fountain in the heart of Palermo. Famous for its elaborate design, numerous nude statues, and its enduring nickname: the “Fountain of Shame” (Fontana della Vergogna). It is one of the city’s major landmarks and is located in the Piazza Pretoria, surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Pretorio (City Hall) and the Church of Santa Caterina.
The fountain was originally commissioned in 1554 by Don Pedro Álvarez de Toledo, the Spanish Viceroy of Naples, for the garden of his private villa in Florence. It was designed by the Florentine sculptor Francesco Camilliani, a student of Baccio Bandinelli.
In 1573, Don Pedro’s son, Don Luigi, who had inherited the fountain but was in debt, decided to sell it to the Senate of Palermo. The city purchased the impressive work for the substantial sum of 30,000 scudi, intending to install it in a prominent public square.
The fountain was dismantled into 644 pieces and shipped to Palermo, a complex process during which some sculptures were damaged or lost. The reassembly was overseen by Francesco’s son, Camillo Camilliani, and Michelangelo Naccherino, with adjustments made to fit the new, more constricted urban space. The work was completed in 1581.
The fountain’s controversial nickname, “Fountain of Shame,” stems from two main reasons:
- Nudity: The fountain features over 50 white marble statues of nude mythological figures, including nymphs, tritons, and river gods. This “flagrant nudity” was considered scandalous by the conservative locals, particularly the nuns in the adjacent convent of Santa Caterina, who could see it from their windows.
- Public Expense: The immense cost of purchasing, transporting, and installing the fountain caused public outrage among the “Palermitani” people, who were experiencing famine and misery at the time. The high expenditure, seen as an act of municipal corruption, led locals to shout “shame, shame” in the square.
The area is a vibrant hub of activity, and the fountain is beautifully illuminated at night, offering a different, enchanting perspective. It was going through refurbishment when we visited, so we could not take a photo of the full square, but what we saw was enough to see how beautiful the fountain is.
Just next to “Fontana Pretoria” is the “Chiesa e Monasterio di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria”.
Chiesa e Monasterio di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria – Palermo
The Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria (Church and Monastery of Saint Catherine of Alexandria) is a magnificent architectural complex located in the heart of Palermo, known for its stunning Sicilian Baroque design and rich historical significance. Once a cloistered Dominican convent, the site now functions as a museum open to the public.
The complex’s history began in 1310 with the endowment of a female Dominican convent by the wealthy Benvenuta Mastrangelo. The current church building, showcasing a mix of Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo styles, was primarily built in the late 16th century and consecrated in 1664.
For centuries, the monastery was home to cloistered nuns, who remained largely separate from the public, observing mass through special grates. The monastery was in continuous use by the Dominican order until 2014, and in 2017, the complex was opened as a museum.
The church’s sober marble façade belies a dazzling and ornate interior, which is considered a masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque art.
- Interior Decoration: Visitors are greeted by intricate frescoes, elaborate stucco work (including pieces attributed to the famous Sicilian artist Giuseppe Serpotta), vibrant marble inlays, and gilded altars.
- Major Artworks: The interior features significant works by prolific artists such as Filippo Randazzo, who painted the “Triumph of Saint Catherine” fresco in the vault, and Vito D’Anna, responsible for the “Triumph of the Holy Dominicans” in the dome.
- The Cloister and Fountain: The adjacent monastery features a beautiful “maiolica” (Sicilian ceramic tile) cloister garden, centred around an 18th-century fountain by sculptor Ignazio Marabitti.
- Rooftop Views: Visitors can access the rooftop terraces for panoramic views of Palermo’s historic centre, including the nearby Piazza Pretoria and Piazza Bellini.
Visiting the Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria is an immersive experience that blends cultural exploration with culinary indulgence.
- The Bakery (La Dolceria): The monastery houses a popular pastry shop where visitors can purchase traditional Sicilian sweets, such as cannoli and cassata, made from the nuns’ original, centuries-old recipes.
- Access: A single ticket often grants access to the church, monastery, and the rooftop. The complex is generally open to the public daily, but specific hours and ticket prices may vary, so checking the official website for current information is recommended.
- Location: The complex is centrally located in Palermo at Piazza Bellini 1, making it a convenient stop on any tour of the city’s main attractions. For official information and to plan your visit, you can check the Monastero Santa Caterina website.
We found the “chiesa” very beautiful and truly enjoyed our visit. We looked at the church interior, admired the decorations and art, and climbed to the rooftop. There are views of Fontana Pretoria from there, but as it was in refurbishment I didn’t take many photos of the fountain from the top.
After the rooftop, we went down to the monastery garden and entered the bakery to choose a few sweets to try. We bought a selection of sweets and sat on a shaded bench facing the fountain. The sweets were lovely, and the break was deserved after a lot of walking!
Next visit was to “Chiesa di San Cataldo”, which is just in front of “Chiesa di Santa Catarina”.
Chiesa di San Cataldo – Palermo
The Chiesa di San Cataldo (Church of San Cataldo) is a renowned 12th-century church located in Piazza Bellini in the historic centre of Palermo, It is a notable example of the unique Arab-Norman architectural style. It is part of the “Arab-Norman Palermo and the Cathedral Churches of Cefalù and Monreale” UNESCO World Heritage Site inscription.
Key Features:
- Architecture: The church is famous for its distinctive exterior, which features compact sandstone walls and three iconic, simple, and unadorned red domes. These domes, along with the use of blind arches and geometric facades, perfectly illustrate the synthesis of Arab, Norman, and Byzantine architectural traditions that flourished on the island during the Norman rule.
- Interior: The interior is known for its austere beauty and simplicity. It has a rectangular structure divided into three short naves by columns, many of which were reused from older Roman buildings. The original mosaic floor in porphyry and serpentine is still intact. The interior’s lack of adornment is due to the murder of its founder, Maio of Bari (King William I’s chancellor), in 1160, shortly after construction began, meaning it was never fully finished or decorated as initially planned.
- History: Founded around 1154, the building has served various purposes over the centuries. Notably, after being deconsecrated in 1787, it was used as a post office. A major restoration in the late 19th century returned it to its original form, including the red domes which were an addition at that time.
- Current Status: Since the 1930s, the church has belonged to the Equestrian Order of the Holy Sepulchre of Jerusalem, one of the oldest religious orders. It is located next to the also-famous Church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (La Martorana), offering contrasting experiences.
This is another beautiful church that should not be confused with “Chiesa di San Giovanni degli Eremeti” which we visited on the previous day, and also has a red-domed roof. They are different churches, both beautiful in their individual ways.
Next to “Chiesa di San Cataldo” is “Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio” also known as “Chiesa della Martorana”. Unfortunately, this church was closed at the time we were there, so we could not visit the interior, but we did enter the “Chiesa di San Cataldo” and enjoyed it.
From there, we visited another famous and beautiful church, the “Chiesa del Gesú di Casa Professa”.
Chiesa del Gesú di Casa Professa
The Chiesa del Gesù (Church of Jesus), also known as “Casa Professa”, is a prominent Roman Catholic church and a major masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque architecture. The church is renowned for its contrast between a relatively simple facade and an astonishingly rich and ornate interior.
The history of the church dates back to the late 16th century when the Jesuits, who arrived in Palermo in 1549, began construction based on plans by Jesuit architect Giovanni Tristano. The new structure incorporated the earlier “Santa Maria della Grotta” church. The building was completed and inaugurated in 1577, with modifications and embellishments continuing for over two centuries.
The church’s structure is a Latin cross plan with three naves and deep side chapels. In 1943, during World War II, the church’s dome was destroyed by bombing, and significant restoration work was undertaken in the following decades to restore it to its former glory.
The interior of the Chiesa del Gesù is a breathtaking example of extravagant Sicilian Baroque art, famous for its “marmi mischi” (mixed marbles) decoration. The decorative scheme is an uninterrupted display of art intended to instruct and inspire the faithful, featuring a vast program of images, allegorical figures, and ornamental motifs.
Key artistic elements include:
- Polychrome Marble Inlays: The walls are almost entirely covered in intricate, lace-like marble inlays, featuring rich figurative and floral motifs.
- Stuccowork and Frescoes: Elaborate stucco work, some by the renowned artist Procopio Serpotta, adorns the ceilings and vaults, complemented by frescoes, including the dome vault fresco attributed to Pietro Novelli.
- Artworks: The church houses numerous chapels with significant paintings and sculptures. Notable works include two paintings by Pietro Novelli, “St. Philip of Argiro” and “St. Paul the Hermit”, located in the second chapel on the right.
- Symbolism: Every detail is rich with symbolism, with the battle between good and evil vividly carved into the stone and marble work.
The “Chiesa del Gesù” remains an active place of worship and an important historical and artistic monument. Visitors can explore the main church, and for a fee, access other areas like the presbytery, crypt, and a museum.
There is a very nice guided tour of the Church of Gesú & Casa Professa Museum with a guide in English where you will explore the Baroque architecture and intricate art work. You will learn with the guide the history and significance of this iconic church. Book this tour HERE.
It was already about 3 pm, and we still wanted to visit the “Catacombe dei Cappuccini”, which was about a half-hour walk from where we were. So, we went in the direction of the Catacombs for our last visit of the day.
Catacombe dei Cappuccini
The Catacombs of the Capuchins (Catacombe dei Cappuccini) is a unique and somewhat macabre historical site that houses the remarkably preserved, and often displayed, remains of thousands of people who died between the 17th and 20th centuries. The catacombs provide a powerful insight into Sicilian attitudes towards death and served as a significant social statement for centuries.
The tradition began in 1599 when the Capuchin monastery outgrew its original cemetery. The friars decided to mummify the recently deceased Brother Silvestro of Gubbio and placed his body in the new underground crypt. The dry conditions of the catacombs naturally preserved many bodies, a phenomenon the friars interpreted as a sign of holiness.
The catacombs quickly became a status symbol, and wealthy locals, nobility, and professionals sought burial there, making generous donations to the monastery. In their wills, they would specify the clothes they wished to be buried in, sometimes even requesting changes of clothes at regular intervals.
The mummification process became an expensive rite, and families’ continued payments ensured their loved one’s body remained in its designated place; a lapse in payments could result in the body being set aside on a shelf.
The catacombs were officially closed to new burials in 1880, though two exceptions were made in the early 20th century.
Estimates suggest that the catacombs contain around 8,000 skeletons and 1,200 mummies, arranged in different corridors by social status, gender, and profession (men, women, virgins, children, priests, and professionals). The bodies are displayed in various states of preservation, some in niches along the walls and others in open or glass-lidded coffins.
Notable Mummies
- Brother Silvestro of Gubbio: The very first person to be interred and displayed in the catacombs in 1599.
- Filippo d’Austria (Ayala): A converted Tunisian prince who was one of the first laymen to be mummified in the catacombs in the early 17th century.
- Giovanni Paterniti: The US Vice-Consul in Palermo, who was one of the last to be interred in 1911.
- Rosalia Lombardo: Known as the “Sleeping Beauty of Palermo,” she is arguably the most famous mummy. She died of pneumonia in 1920, just shy of her second birthday, and her grief-stricken father commissioned the renowned embalmer Alfredo Salafia to preserve her. Salafia used a unique formula (including formalin, zinc salts, alcohol, glycerin, and salicylic acid) that left her body remarkably intact, appearing as if she is peacefully sleeping. Her body is now housed in a sealed glass case with nitrogen gas to prevent further decay.
The catacombs, located at Piazza Cappuccini 1, are a popular but intense tourist attraction. Visitors are expected to behave respectfully, and photography is strictly prohibited inside. The experience is not recommended for young children due to the potentially upsetting nature of the displays, particularly the child mummies.
It was a nice walk through the streets of Palermo to get to the catacombs. We arrived there in plenty of time to get in and visit the unusual attraction. I do not have any photos, as photos are not permitted. We found it an interesting visit, although more macabre than the Catacombs of Paris, which we also visited.
If you enjoy a bit of the dark side , there is a tour that covers Palermo’s most enigmatic cemeteries and the Capuchin Catacombs. Book this tour HERE.
After the visit, we made our way back to our B&B for a shower and some rest. We left again just before 8 pm and walked in the direction of “Le Angeliche” restaurant, where we had a reservation for dinner.
The restaurant is pretty, very well decorated, with an attractive terrace where we were given a table. There weren’t many options on the menu, and we ended up choosing what we thought would be a good choice.
The food was OK, but not remarkable, and I was expecting something better. I can’t criticise what we had, it was not bad, just plain and too simple. However, the fact that they adhered to the “Addiopizzo” justifies a visit at least to support their courage.
This was the end of our visit to Palermo. We went back to our B&B and crashed as we were very tired from all the walking of the day. The next day promised new adventures as we were planning to visit Corleone, “Scala dei Turchi”, Agrigento and check in at “Montalbano House” in Punta Secca in the evening. Stay tuned for the next post coming next week.
I hope this post will give you some idea of what can be done in a day in Palermo and will help you plan your own visit there.
Below is a reel from the Travelling Surveyor Instagram account showing more photos of Palermo. Check it out and follow me on Instagram as well.
Don’t forget to check the tours of Sicily and other places available at Tourradar, I’m sure you will find the perfect tour that will fit your requirements and budget. If you book it via my link you can get a discount by using this code: RoseG50.
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST OF YOUR VISIT IN PALERMO
Below you will find a list of what to visit, where to stay and where to eat around Palermo. I classified each place as follows:
BOLD – Visited, tried and recommended
NOT BOLD – Not visited or tried, but planning to visit or try and heard very good reviews
RED – Visited and tried but do not recommend, avoid or be cautious
*** – Excellent
** – Good
* – OK
£££ – Expensive
££ – Fair and affordable
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£ – Cheap
PLEASE NOTE: Every hotel, restaurants and attractions I mention on my blogs are not sponsored reviews and we always paid the full price when visiting. We give our own opinion of the place and detail our experience, good or bad.
THINGS TO DO IN PALERMO
ATTRACTIONS DAY 1
1 – No Mafia Tour – ***
2 – Quattro Canti – ***
3 – Fontana Pretoria – ***
4 – Chiesa e Monastero di Santa Caterina d’Alessandria – ***
5 – Chiesa di San Cataldo – ***
6 – Chiesa di Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana
7 – Chiesa de Gesú di Casa Professa – ***
8 – Catacombe dei Cappuccini – ***
WHERE TO STAY
ACCOMMODATION
1 – Heritage Collection Palermo B&B – 4* – *** – ££ – (We stayed here)
2 – Palazzo Cartari – 4* – ££
3 – Palermo Inn Boutique Hotel – ££
4 – Locanda SantaMarina Dimora di Charme – 4* – ££
5 – Hotel Trinacria – 3* – £
6 – Julia’s Boutique Rooms – 3* – £
If you prefer to look for your own accommodation, search and book via the below widget:
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BEST PLACES TO EAT
RESTAURANTS
1 – BIGA Genio e Farina – *** – £ – (We ate here)
2 – Le Angeliche – *** – ££ – (We ate here)
3 – Tara – Botega e Cucina – £
4 – Lumia Restaurant – ££
5 – Doba Restaurant – £££
6 – Grano Granis – ££
We only tried the ones in bold , the others are the result of my researches and ones that I would like to try. If you tried any of my recommendations above, please send me a message and tell me about your experience good or bad, so I can update the list accordingly. Thanks!
If you enjoyed reading this post you might also like to read:
On this trip to Italy:
1 – Catania – Day 1
2 – Catania – Day 2
3 – Taormina
4 – Cefalú
5 – Palermo – Day 1
6 – Palermo – Day 2
8 – Punta Secca
9 – Ragusa – Day 1
10 – Ragusa – Day 2
11 – Modica
12 – Noto
13 – Siracusa – Day 1
14 – Siracusa – Day 2 – Coming soon
15 – Catania and Conclusion – Day – 3 – Coming soon
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