Are you planning your trip to Sicily? Would you like to know more about what to see on the island? Read on. In this post, I will tell you what we did on the two days we spent in Ragusa and what is there to see and include in your own itinerary.
On this trip, we had already visited Catania, Taormina, Cefalù, Palermo, Corleone & Agrigento and Punta Secca. Check these posts via the links.
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We were travelling independently around the island with a hired car we booked via Discover Cars, as we are confident travellers and speak a bit of the language. However, if you prefer to be part of a tour and to have everything organised for you, I advise you to book a complete tour of the island with Tourradar.
They have different kinds of tours that will fit your time and budget. If you book it via my link you can get a discount by using this code: RoseG50.
We continued the trip, and our next town was Ragusa.
We left Punta Secca at about 9 am, just after our last breakfast at the terrace of Montalbano’s House, looking at the beach.
The trip from Punta Secca to Ragusa is about 35 minutes by car.
We booked a B&B called “Giardino di Pietra” (Stone Garden). We were in contact with the owner, and he said it was OK for us to arrive earlier than the check-in time and leave our luggage there.
The B&B was in Ragusa Ibla, and he met us when we arrived in front of the building. He guided us to a road nearby where we could park and leave the car there for the time of our stay. Roads in Ragusa Ibla are very narrow, and not all of them are open for traffic. We didn’t want to use the car anyway, as we were planning to explore the town on foot.
Our room was already available, and he checked us in at that time. The room was lovely, furnished with period furniture in a restored building that belonged to the same family for ages. We loved the room, which was large and airy with a balcony. The location was also ideal, between Ragusa Ibla and Ragusa Superiore.
We left our luggage in the room and soon left to start our explorations of Ragusa. I will tell you all about it, but before, let’s learn a little bit about Ragusa.
Below is a map of the places we visited in Ragusa on Day 1:
A LITTLE BIT ABOUT RAGUSA
Ragusa is a historic city in southeastern Sicily, famous for its extraordinary Baroque architecture and unique division into two distinct parts: the old town of Ragusa Ibla and the upper, more modern Ragusa Superiore. Together with other towns in the Val di Noto, Ragusa is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
A City of Two Halves
The division of Ragusa is the result of a massive earthquake in 1693 that devastated the area.
Ragusa Ibla: The ancient core, rebuilt on the original site with a charming, labyrinthine network of narrow streets and alleys that wind up and down the hill. It is the main tourist draw and home to most of the city’s 18 UNESCO-protected buildings.
Ragusa Superiore: The “upper town” was built on a nearby plateau with a more modern, grid-like urban plan and wider streets. It serves as the commercial and administrative heart of the modern city.
The two parts are connected by scenic staircases and four bridges across a deep ravine, earning Ragusa the nickname “city of bridges”. The most famous pedestrian connection is the staircase by the “Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Scale”, which offers a breathtaking panoramic view of Ibla cascading down the hillside.
Architectural Highlights
Ragusa’s architecture is a testament to the resilience and artistic vision of its people, who embraced the elaborate Sicilian Baroque style during reconstruction.
- Duomo di San Giorgio (Ragusa Ibla): Considered a masterpiece of Sicilian Baroque design by architect Rosario Gagliardi, this magnificent cathedral dominates the skyline of Ragusa Ibla with its impressive façade and grand flight of 250 steps.
- Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista (Ragusa Superiore: The main cathedral in the upper town, featuring an ornate Baroque facade and a tall bell tower.
- Palazzi (Palaces): The streets are lined with aristocratic palaces featuring elaborate balconies supported by fascinatingly carved grotesque figures and masks, such as “Palazzo Beneventano” and Palazzo La Rocca.
VISITING RAGUSA
We started our visits of the day by walking to the “Antico Mercato” (Old Market), which was close to our B&B.
Antico Mercato
The “Antico Mercato” (Old Market) in Ragusa Ibla is no longer a traditional, bustling daily market in the historical sense. Instead, this beautifully restored 19th-century building now serves as a cultural hub, artisan showcase, and culinary spot, blending history with modern Sicilian flair.
History and Restoration
The building, located on Via del Mercato, dates back to the late 1800s. It was originally a vibrant commercial centre where locals would shop for fresh produce and fish. Recently, the space underwent a brilliant renovation led by a group of young artisans and artists. The restoration brought the old stone walls and original niches back to life, aiming to preserve the ancient atmosphere and traditional way of life of Ibla’s inhabitants.
Modern Use
Today, the “Antico Mercato” offers visitors an immersive cultural experience rather than just a place to buy groceries. The space is used for several purposes:
- Artisan Shops & Workshops: The old stalls and workshops are now home to local artists and small businesses dedicated to preserving ancient flavours and high-quality Sicilian products. Visitors can interact with these artists and explore themed shops showcasing traditional crafts.
- Dining and Local Cuisine: A prominent feature is the opportunity to experience authentic Sicilian food and drinks. There is a charming café/eatery where visitors can enjoy local specialities, such as salads and wines, often praised for their fresh ingredients and reasonable prices.
- Cultural Events: The venue hosts various lively workshops and evening music events, fostering a vibrant atmosphere for both locals and tourists.
At the time we went there, only a few shops and the café were open, maybe because it was too early in the day. We mainly went because of the building, which is a lovely, restored structure.
We continued going up Ibla, and our next visit was to “Palazzo de La Rocca”, near the Duomo.
At the time of our visit, they were having an exhibition commemorating 100 years of Andrea Camilleri and his books. He has hundreds of books, and all of them were exposed there for the public to appreciate.
Palazzo La Rocca
Palazzo La Rocca, located in the heart of Ragusa Ibla just behind the Cathedral of San Giorgio, is a magnificent example of 18th-century Sicilian Baroque architecture. It was built on the site of older La Rocca family residences around 1765 by Baron Don Saverio La Rocca following the 1693 earthquake.
Architectural Significance
The palace is most famous for its striking one-story facade, characterised by eight ornate balconies featuring “goose-breast” wrought-iron railings. Each balcony is supported by three elaborately carved corbels (shelves) made of local natural stone, known locally as “masks” or “grotesques”.
- Intricate Carvings: The corbels display a variety of fascinating human figures, caricatures, and decorative motifs, each telling a story of 18th-century life. These include a flute player, a woman with a child, a telamon (a male figure acting as a supporting column), and even a figure with a top hat and glasses.
- Grand Interior: The main entrance leads to an atrium and an elegant double-flight staircase made of dark pitchstone, a contrasting feature that leads to the main floor rooms.
- The interior features original 18th-century elements, including lacquered doors, majolica and asphalt stone floors, and stuccoed walls. Some rooms contain unique details like blue Murano glass chandeliers. The Palazzo and the chandelier were featured in one of the episodes of Inspector Montalbano.
The entrance to the Palazzo was free, and we enjoyed the visit and the exhibition of Andrea Camilleri. The next visit was to the Duomo di San Giorgio, close by.
Ragusa is unique in that it essentially has two “Duomos” (Cathedrals), one in each of its distinct districts, both serving as prime examples of Sicilian Baroque architecture and contributing to the city’s UNESCO World Heritage status.
Duomo di San Giorgio (Ragusa Ibla)
This is the more famous and visually dramatic of the two Cathedrals in Ragusa, the iconic symbol of the old town of Ragusa Ibla.
- Architecture: Designed by the renowned architect Rosario Gagliardi, the church is a masterpiece of Baroque design with an imposing, three-tiered, slightly convex facade that incorporates the bell tower. The structure culminates in a grand neoclassical dome, added later in 1820, that is visible from miles around.
- Location and Approach: It is majestically set at the top of a grand flight of steps, which enhances its grandeur and provides a stunning focal point for the sloping Piazza Duomo below.
- Interior and Art: The interior is a Latin cross plan with three naves, separated by large pillars. It is well-lit by 33 stained glass windows depicting the martyrdom of St. George. Inside, you can also find a silver statue of Saint George on horseback, which is carried in a procession on the saint’s feast day.
- Pop Culture: The cathedral and its picturesque location frequently appear in the opening credits and episodes of the popular Italian TV series “Inspector Montalbano”.
The Duomo di Ragusa Ibla is very beautiful; it is an immersive experience in the Baroque architecture and an unmissable visit for those interested in history, art and architecture.
For a little more fee, you can enter and walk on the stairway and climb a narrow stair to access an interior balcony and appreciate the Duomo from the top.
After the visit to the Duomo, we explored the streets of Ragusa Ibla. We went all the way to “Giardino Ibleo” (Iblean Garden).
Giardino Ibleo
The Iblean Garden is the oldest of the four main public parks in Ragusa, Sicily, established in 1858. Located at the easternmost edge of the historic Ragusa Ibla district, this 19th-century “green lung” is perched at an altitude of 385 meters on a rocky spur overlooking the Irminio River valley.
Key Features and Attractions
The garden combines lush Mediterranean and exotic flora with historic architecture:
- Churches and Monuments: Uniquely, the park contains three churches: San Vincenzo Ferreri, San Giacomo, and the Capuchin Church. It also features an imposing monument dedicated to the fallen of World War I.
- Scenic Pathways: Visitors enter through a majestic boulevard lined with trees, leading to stone-paved paths decorated with fountains, columns, and sculptures.
- Panoramic Views: An elegant limestone balcony offers sweeping vistas of the Iblean Mountains and the surrounding countryside.
- Historical Relics: Just outside the entrance lies the Portale di San Giorgio, a 14th-century Gothic-Catalan portal which is one of the few remains of the original cathedral destroyed in the 1693 earthquake.
We entered the garden and strolled through the well-maintained paths and lush garden. The viewpoints in this garden afford beautiful views of the valley and Ragusa surroundings. We took various photos in the garden and from the viewpoints.
It was lunch time, and we were hungry, so we decided to stop at a café on Corso XXV Aprile, almost in front of the entrance to the garden. When we passed in front to go to the garden, I noticed this café, called “Iusu”. I thought it was one I’ve heard before called “Risiu”, so when we finished in the garden, we walked there for some lunch.
We only ordered some “Scaccia” and some cold drinks as we didn’t want to eat any proper meal, we just wanted a snack.
In Italian (specifically Sicilian dialect), Scaccia (plural scacce) is a traditional, savoury stuffed flatbread, similar to a rolled-up pizza or calzone, made from thin dough layered with fillings like tomato, cheese, onions, or eggplant, then folded and baked, originating from the Ragusa region of Sicily.
It was very good and enough to keep us going until dinner time. While still there, I looked at my itinerary and realised that the café I was looking for was called “Risiu”, and not “Iusu”, and the one I wanted was located on Via dei Normanni, in front of the “Antico Portale di San Giorgio”.
It was the street next to where we were. Never mind, this café was very good as well, and they had a good variety of food to choose from, including various pasta dishes and a dish of the day. We didn’t mind getting there by mistake.
We walked back to “Piazza Duomo” and decided to catch the little “Baroque Train” for a trip around Ragusa. Tickets cost 5 Euros each. It was a 30-minute tour that took us to some parts of the town that would require more effort on foot. So, for us, it was worth sitting back a little, enjoying the baroque panorama of Ragusa Ibla.
When the tour finished, we continued to explore the streets of Ragusa and walked to “Porta Walter”.
Porta Walter
Porta Walter, also known as Porta Vattiri, is a historic and architecturally significant entrance gate to the ancient city of Ragusa Ibla. It is a rare remnant of medieval Ragusa and the only one of the five original city gates that survived the devastating earthquake of 1693.
Key Details and Significance
- Historical Milestone: The gate was constructed in 1643 to commemorate the visit of the Viceroy of Sicily, the Count of Modica and Lord of Ragusa, Enriquez-Cabrera.
- Resilience: Its primary significance lies in its survival of the catastrophic 1693 earthquake, which destroyed nearly all of the surrounding city, preserving a piece of pre-Baroque Ragusa for future generations.
- Architecture: The impressive structure stands at 5 meters high and 3 meters wide, featuring a semi-circular arch. It is characterised by two rows of large carvings above the arch, offering a glimpse into the city’s ancient defences.
- Location: The gate is a lesser-known, authentic side access point to Ragusa Ibla, located near the Church of Santa Maria del Gesù and close to the Iblean Gardens. Its position also offers scenic panoramic views of the surrounding Sicilian landscapes and valleys.
- Modern Context: Today, the gate is an important, though sometimes overlooked, historical attraction that helps visitors understand the layout and history of the ancient city walls. The adjacent building and nearby Church of Santa Maria del Gesù have undergone restoration work, adding to the charm of the area.
For history enthusiasts or fans of the “Inspector Montalbano” TV series (which is filmed in the region and filmed Porta Walter), Porta Walter is a hidden gem that provides a tangible link to Ragusa’s rich and resilient past.
From there, we walked to the very top of Ragusa Ibla where there is a beautiful mansion called Villa Arezzo. Villa Arezzo must have been a significant building when built, but today it looks like it was converted into flats and is not open to the public.
Next to Villa Arezzo is the huge building that can be seen from anywhere on top of Ragusa Ibla. My husband and I were curious to find out what this building was. By looking at it, it seems to be abandoned; no signs of any activity going on there at present.
Very little information is available about this building, and from my research, all I could find out was that it was built on the site of the Medieval Castle of Ragusa, which was damaged in the earthquake of 1693.
The huge building was built at the end of the 19th century and used to be a Military Base until 1950. From 1994, it was used as a university building housing the Faculty of Agriculture. However, it remains empty nowadays, like many buildings in Ragusa, abandoned and left to the rats.
We walked back to our B&B and rested a little bit before having a shower and getting ready to go out for dinner. On the way back, we passed the road where our car was parked. We spotted a paper on the windscreen and picked it up. It was a parking fine!
We were very annoyed and wondered why the owner of the B&B would tell us to park there.
Back in the room, I read the ticket properly and realised this ticket was not issued in Ragusa, it was issued in Punta Secca, but we didn’t notice it on our windscreen all the way to Ragusa! 🤣
It said that we parked in a disabled car space in Punta Secca. However, we didn’t see any signs that the space we parked was a disabled space. We were quite surprised and annoyed. The fine was 330 Euros, but if paid within 5 days it was 231 Euros. It was a lot of money for a car parking fine, but we didn’t let it spoil our night and trip.
We had a restaurant called “I Banchi” booked for 8 pm, so we just got ready and left for the restaurant. Which was about 10-minute walk from our B&B.
On the way to the restaurant we passed another restaurant called “Trattoria La Bettola”. We were planning to have dinner there the following day, but we didn’t have a reservation. We noticed the restaurant was full and very busy, so took the opportunity to book a table for the next day.
I Banchi Restaurant looked very nice, it had tables on the pavement, and we were guided to sit at one of them. It turned out to be one of the nicest meals we had on this trip.
We had as starters burrata served with caponata in a pea sauce and a delicious tomato salad. As the main, my husband chose an artichoke dish, and I chose the ravioli with a wonderful meat sauce.
Everything was simply delicious and remarkable. At least dinner compensated for the disappointment of the fine, discovered a bit earlier.
It was a warm and beautiful night, and we walked back to our B&B in high spirits despite the earlier disappointment.
The following day was promising to be another nice day with plans to visit Ragusa Superiore. Stay with me and wait to hear about our second day in Ragusa.
I hope this post will give you some idea of what can be done in a day in Rgusa and will help you plan your own visit there.
Below is a reel from the Travelling Surveyor Instagram account showing more photos of Ragusa. Check it out and follow me on Instagram as well.
HOW TO MAKE THE MOST YOUR VISIT TO RAGUSA
Below you will find a list of what to visit, where to stay and where to eat in Ragusa. I classified each place as follows:
BOLD – Visited, tried and recommended
NOT BOLD – Not visited or tried, but planning to visit or try and heard very good reviews
RED – Visited and tried but do not recommend, avoid or be cautious
*** – Excellent
** – Good
* – OK
£££ – Expensive
££ – Fair and affordable
PLEASE NOTE: Every hotel, restaurants and attractions I mention on my blogs are not sponsored reviews and we always paid the full price when visiting. We give our own opinion of the place and detail our experience, good or bad.
THINGS TO DO IN RAGUSA
ATTRACTIONS
1 – Antico Mercato – ***
2 – Palazzo La Rocca – ***
3 – Duomo di San Giorgio – ***
4 – Giardino Ibleo – ***
5 – The Little Baroque Train – ***
6 – Porta Walter – ***
7 – Walk on the streets of Ragusa Ibla – ***
WHERE TO STAY
ACCOMMODATION
1 – Giardino di Pietra – 4* – ££ – *** (We stayed here)
2 – B&B Terra del Sole Ibla – 4* – ££
3 – Relais Antica Badia – San Maurizio 1619 – 5* – £££
4 – TrinaSicula Rgusa Ibla – 4* – ££
5 – La Terrazza Sul Barocco – 3* – ££
6 – Iblaresort Boutique Hotel – 3* – ££
If you prefer to look for your own accommodation, search and book via the below widget:
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BEST PLACES TO EAT
RESTAURANTS
1 – I Banchi – ££ – *** – (We ate here)
2 – Iuso Café – £ – ***– (We ate here)
3 – Cucina Sincera – ££
4 – Locanda Don Serafino – £££
5 – Cucina e Vino – £££
6 – Monsú – £££
We only tried the ones in bold , the others are the result of my researches and ones that I would like to try. If you tried any of my recommendations above, please send me a message and tell me about your experience good or bad, so I can update the list accordingly. Thanks!
If you enjoyed reading this post you might also like to read:
On this trip to Italy:
1 – Catania – Day 1
2 – Catania – Day 2
3 – Taormina
4 – Cefalú
5 – Palermo – Day 1
6 – Palermo – Day 2
8 – Punta Secca
9 – Ragusa – Day 1
10 – Ragusa – Day 2
11 – Modica
12 – Noto
13 – Siracusa – Day 1
14 – Siracusa – Day 2 – Coming soon
15 – Catania and Conclusion – Day – 3 – Coming soon
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